On July 8th 2026, the French Ministry of the Ecological Transition officially launched the public consultation of the French EPR textile scheme, which will remain open for stakeholder feedback until July 29th, 2026. Following this consultation period, the draft decree will be submitted for final reviews and approvals before its official publication and scheduled entry into force.

France established the first Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) scheme for textiles in 2008. Since its inception, the system has been managed by a single accredited Producer Responsibility Organisation (PRO), Refashion (formerly Eco-TLC). The scope of this EPR scheme—known as TLC—covers three product categories placed on the French market: Apparel (Textiles d’habillement), Footwear (Chaussures), and Household Linens (Linge de maison). The newly defined EPR scheme technical specifications had been long awaited by stakeholders who hope to see a structural change in the way textile waste is handled in France. The new specifications will enter into force on January 1st 2027.

Let’s take a deep dive into some of the key structural changes. This is not a complete review but rather highlights some of the biggest changes in comparison with the 2022 sets of requirements.

What has changed?

Fees and ecomodulations

While ecomodulations already existed in France on several criteria (physical durability, integration of recycled material, environmental certifications, recyclability), the new specifications integrate a bonus on the French Eco Score (environmental cost).

• For 12 product categories, brands can benefit from these eco score bonuses if their products have a lower or equal environmental costs than a set threshold, expressed in impacts points per 100 gr of product. To support brands in adopting the tool, this bonus increases over time (e.g., from €0.50/unit in 2027 to €1/unit in 2029 for a t-shirt with an impact under 265 points/100g). However, note that this Eco Score bonus* and the environmental label bonus are strictly non-cumulative.
• The physical durability detailed criteria are removed and instead, the Ministry requires the PRO to propose new physical durability criteria and relevant product categories by 1st January 2027. Under this new EPR Modulations, physical durability bonuses will be calculated using a cost reference (from 1 EUR to 0,03 cts EUR based on thresholds of the number of units eco-modulated) multiplied by a specific product category factor.
• A key point is that the bonus for integration of recycled materials only applies for close loops for apparel, while open loop remains a possibility for footwear. They also only apply if the principle of proximity is respected which has been clearly defined in the new requirements. The PRO shall develop minimal traceability requirements so that brands can benefit from the bonuses (by latest 1st of April 2027).
• Regarding the modulation for the use of environmental labels (Ecocert® Textile, Oeko-tex® Made in Green, Bluesign®, Fairtrade®, Ecolabel Européen, Demeter ®, GOTS et Bioré®), the new requirements integrate a timeline approach, reducing overtime the bonus in EUR/unit, from €0.30 per unit in 2027 to just €0.10 per unit by 2031. This timeline acts as a clear signal for brands to reform their product portfolios early on to capture maximum benefits.
• In addition to metaloplastic fibers or yarn and the presence of electronical/electric components, the penalty on recyclability also targets products with more than 5% elastane and will apply starting in 2028. It is structured with a highly punitive trajectory: starting at 100% of the financial contribution in 2028-2029, doubling to 200% in 2030-2031, and reaching 300% from 2032 onwards. The PRO has the right to exempt products from this penalty and shall present a proposal for approval to the Ministry by April 2027.

*The environmental cost (or “French Eco Score”) is calculated in accordance with Decree No. 2025-957 of September 6, 2025, and the Ministerial Order of the same date, which define the methodology for calculating and communicating the environmental footprint of apparel products. This score, expressed in impact points per 100 grams of product, must be clearly displayed to consumers at the point of sale for the brand to qualify for the eco-modulation bonus. It remains a voluntary approach for brands.

Collection

The new specification abandons the traditional collection rate prescribed as a percentage of products placed on the market but is rather defined now as an objective to reduce the amount of textile waste left in waste municipal streams (the grey bin) by 35% by 2031 compared to 2024 data. This reduction target is strictly calculated based on the net wet mass (masse nette d’humidité) of textile waste found in residual municipal waste streams.

It also provides a separate collection rate expressed in kt/year with a target set at 330 kt/year from 2029 and climbing to 460kt/year from 2031. For reference Refashion collects roughly 280 kt/year (in 2024). Such objectives can be changed upon request of the PRO to the Ministry of the Environment. Some actors in the value chain have regretted such a low collection target.

Additionally, while the PRO can directly provide collection services (pourvoi), this operational intervention will be strictly restricted, starting January 1st, 2028, to under-capacity areas identified in a dedicated collection network analysis (plan de maillage).

Repair

The repair target is set at + 5% of the number of repaired products repaired through the Repair Fund vs 2024 data. Note that the 2022 requirements had requested a +35% increase in comparison with 2019 data.

The repair fund has taken a big hit : its amount is set at 19 M EUR in 2027 and gradually increases up to 33 M EUR in 2031, while the 2022 requirements had set an envelope of 44 M EUR. The modalities of use of the repair funds have also changed, allowing to finance new activities such as training for repair professionals, communications activities around such training, or promotions of the repair activities financed by the PRO.

Reuse

In the 2022 requirements, the reuse objective was defined as 120 000 tonnes reused and a percentage of 15% of those reused locally (less than 1500 km from collection points) by 2027. The new requirements mixes the two approaches defining a kt/year that shall be reused following the proximity principle. It sets a target of 30 kt/year by 2029 and 55 kt/year by 2031. In comparison, the 2022 reuse requirements (15% of 120 kt) equals to 18 kt/year reused locally.

However, while the physical targets are rising, the financial backing is disappearing: the reuse fund now has no minimum envelope. In comparison, the 2022 framework guaranteed a massive minimum budget of €150 million (averaging €25 million per year) dedicated to supporting reuse and the social economy.

Sorting

For the first time, the framework legally defines over-sorting as an activity that separates sorted textiles by precise composition and/or color to feed recycling plants directly without further sorting. Under the new specifications, this critical industrial step becomes fully eligible for both operational and investment funding from the PRO.

Achieving the ambitious recycling targets (defined below) is impossible without a structural upgrade of sorting infrastructures. For the first time, the draft specifications require the PRO to submit a comprehensive action plan by January 1st, 2028, aimed at industrialising sorting activities and massifying collected textile waste in France.

Rather than relying solely on fragmented local facilities, this plan will focus on scaling up capacities. Crucially, the PRO can support these massive industrial investments, with a mandatory requirement to cover at least 50% of the investment costs incurred by sorting operators to expand their capacities.

Recycling

The new requirements introduce two distinct sub targets for recycling, driving both geographical and circular accountability :

1. Proximity recycling: The quantity of textile waste entering a local recycling facility (within the defined 1,500 km radius) must reach 55 kt/year by 2029, and scale up dramatically to 165 kt/year by 2031.
2. Textile-to-textile recycling: To push the industry away from downcycling (like insulation or rags), 45% of the total recycled textile waste must be recycled back into textiles (closed-loop) by 2031, also under the proximity principle.

Such targets can be reached thanks to the mandatory requirements of spending a 151 millions euros enveloped for the period 2027-2023 on sorting, recycling pre-processes, recycling and integration of recycled materials activities.

Financial supports

The new specifications define several types of financial support:

• Traceability support: Introduction in the new requirements of financial support to be granted to operators for increasing the traceability of textile waste.
• Collection capacity incentives: Possibility for the PRO to finance the extension of collections capacities through direct support to collectors. Modalities of this support shall be given to the Ministry of Environment by October 1st 2027. There are no direct financial support to collectors.
  
• Sorters’ support package: Support to sorters with a price of 268 EUR/tonne for 2027 which can be adjusted based on a productivity ratio for the following years. Such support will only be granted if the sorting data of the year N has been declared to the ADEME (French Environmental Agency) before April 1st N+1. To help with cash flow, a new system of quarterly upfront advances has been developed. Additionally, if the PRO decides to support sorters in scaling up their facilities, it must cover at least 50% of the investment costs.
• Exclusion penalties for sorters: sorted textile streams that do not go to qualified reuse or proximity recycling outlets will face a progressive discount on the 268 EUR/t support (starting at a 10% deduction in 2027 and rising to 30% by 2031).
• Mandatory recycling funding with flexible modalities: The eco-organization must contribute minimum annual amounts to recycling and reincorporation (e.g., from 10 M€ in 2027 to 96 M€ in 2031 for functional costs), but it may choose to fulfill this obligation through direct financial support, providing the service itself, or taking equity stakes in facilities

A brand new governance: the operational technical committee

To ensure smoother dialogue between stakeholders, the newly proposed specifications mandate the creation of an Operational Technical Committee (CTO). This committee will bring together local authorities, waste operators, sorters, recyclers, and reuse organizations to consult on technical standards, collection network density, and sorting quality guidelines. Most operational decisions by the PRO will now require consultation or agreement with this committee.

Conclusions

The newly proposed specifications for the French Textile EPR scheme introduce significant changes compared to the 2022 framework, impacting every stakeholder from fashion brands and producers to advanced recycling facilities. Moving forward, the ultimate test will be whether these updated requirements can truly resolve the massive operational and economic challenges faced by waste management actors on the ground.
Stay tuned this September/October for the release of the official technical specifications!